February/March News

Chris Stofel from Austria arrived via Workaway. A landscape garden by profession, he had a lot of hiking experience, loved flora and fauna, could handle a chainsaw and made You Tube videos about his adventures! After doing a bit of maintenance work at Djelili and Potami/Diakopi, we decided to go for it and reopen The Gorge. In fact he welcomed the challenge. In spite of many rainy days, it took us just 9 days. It was also great that he was here for the Carnival as he was able to include that in his video about Skopelos Trails. This is a link to his You Tube video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJfDm8KFE6U&t=63s Skopelos Workaway: Hidden Paradise of Greece. He has made many other travel videos under the name STRAWANZA.

Next up was Sina, a 23 year old medical student from Germany. She was strong and willing to take on any job that presented itself. We tried unsuccessfully to find a better trail head for the Gorge but at least cut away a lot of undergrowth to reveal the ruins of a lime kiln. We then cut away a A LOT of smilax that was blocking a portion of the Gorge. During her stay, we also carried out maintenance work at Ag Marina (3 days), Palouki (1 day) Anania, Pirgos (3 days), Dymaka, Pirgos (2 days) and made a start at Ag Reginos/Platanakia (1 day).

On Sunday 6 April, I will be conducting a guided hike of the Gorge. We will drive to the trail head from Kastro car park, setting off at 10.30am. The Gorge itself takes about 1.1/2 hours to walk, one way. There are trees to crawl under, rocks to climb over and narrow paths with a sheer drop. Hiking here is at your own risk. Please let me know if you intend to go/want to car share. Please remember that this gorge has been the undisturbed habitat for many species of flora and fauna. We must respect this.

My April volunteer has recently cancelled so it looks as if I will have an enforced rest. Let’s see!

Tzilali/Kriavrissi Karya (part II)

Together with Austrian Workaway volunteer Chris, nine days were spent working on this 1.40km Gorge during February. If there was man-made trail, we cleared it; even one portion that is sandwiched between two huge landslides, thus rendering it somewhat redundant for the moment.

Trees too fat for my chainsaw had to be left so you have to crawl under, slippery waterfalls have to be navigated, a narrow path had to be dug out (don’t look down!) and every time the landslides dictate, we direct you into the valley floor. There are lose rocks everywhere.

All along the route, we found many scarlet coloured Elf cups (Sarcoscypha), colbolt blue Terana and multi-coloured turkey-tail (Trametes versicolor) fungi as well as Greek Anemones (Anemonoides blanda) plus beautiful natural sculptures, rock formations and ruins of what I assume were water mills.

The bridge is very delicate and under no circumstances should be walked upon. In fact, the whole Gorge is walked at your own risk. There is also one portion without a phone signal.

In spite of the above, it is absolutely stunning.

Hikers can now walk from town to Ag Konstantinos/Glysteri, continue up to the XTA, cross over and trail up towards Efstathios, dirt road to Karya then use the Gorge to return back towards Glysteri and town. Or from town trail to Anania, asphalt towards Sendoukia and circle round to Karia. Both great day long hikes.

Enjoy!

The Tzilali/Karya Gorge

It has long been my ambition to get this abandoned but previously well-used route reopened. Being the main way to the kalivia of the Karya area, it was once in regular use. The mules would be loaded up and everyone had their last drink at the Tzilali spring before setting off.

Djelili spring

However, with the creation of the wide EU road, positioned directly above the gorge (made ostensibly for bringing the household refuge from Elios to Papou XTA) many landslides occurred during the road’s construction and by the laws of gravity, rubble and boulders tumbled downwards. Thus, the trail fell into disuse.

Fearing the worst, and believing what I was told, I didn’t even bother to check the trail out to see how bad the blockages were. Well not until recently that is and I was pleasantly surprised. It is obviously overgrown having been neglected for forty odd years but there are portions of beautiful man-made trail surviving, particularly near to the top end and of course, the semi-circular stone bridge is still intact.

Having cleared the trail from the kriavrissi end down to the bridge last year, we will soon be making a start to clear from the bridge down towards Tzilali junction.

The opening of this route will automatically create several long, circular hikes. The other connecting trails have already been reopened and were just waiting for the last piece of the jigsaw to be put into place.

A SHORT GUIDE TO THE MONASTERIES

There are 14 monasteries on Skopelos. All are Orthodox. Five are inhabited and open to the public. They are closed between 2pm and 5pm. Four are privately owned. The others are closed, disused or ruins. Nearly all have nearby fresh water springs.

Please observe their dress code, show respect and leave a donation at least for candles lit.

Nuns should be addressed as ‘sister’ and monks as ‘brother’.

PALOUKI AREA

EVANGELISMOU TIS THEOTOKOU

Meaning: The Annunciation. The time when an angel appeared before Mary with lilies and told her she was pregnant.

Name Day: 25 March. First recorded restoration took place in 1712. Since July 2024, monk Paisios has resided there.

METAMORPHOSIS OF THE SOTIROS

Meaning: Matthew 17 – when Jesus was temporarily changed physically ‘his face bright as the sun, clothes white as light’. It was a short glimpse and proof for (doubting) Thomas that He was indeed the son of God.

Built in 1636. Name day: 6 August when grapes are offered to the congregation. Monk Dionysis has resided here for some 20 years.

SAINT BARBARA

Meaning: Barbara the martyr lived from 273-306AD. Her father kept her prisoner and is usually portrayed with chains and a tower.

The building was first restored according to records in 1697. Name day: 4 December. Nun Joanna has stayed here since 2024 before which she lived in Evangelismou.

TIMIOU PRODROMOU

Meaning: The honourable John the Baptist; saint of love, loyalty and friendship.

Built in 1616. Name day; 24 June. Monk Theothosis arrived in 2020 and has transformed the place for the better, even selling his own art in the gift shop.

TAXIARCHES, VATOS (Uninhabited)

Meaning: The arc-angels Gabriel and Michaelis in the area of Vatos (bramble).

Accessible only on foot. Name day: 8 November when many islanders make their way there.

PANAGIA LIOVATHIOTISSA (Privately owned by Virgilios Tsioulli)

Built between 16th and 17th century. Name day: a changing date soon after Easter.

EPISKOPI (Privately owned by the Dimitriadou family)

Amazing finds during it’s restoration including evidence of a Roman temple dedicated to Artemis.

Name day: 15 August

AG IOANNIS KOTRONAKI (Closed)

In good condition and a monk did briefly stay here, but it does open its doors to celebrate its name day.

STAVROS (Privately owned by Andromachi Balazoudi)

Meaning: The cross. The outbuildings are now ruins but the church is intact.

Name day: 14 September

PERA KARIA AREA

AGIA MONI KIMISI THEOTOKOU

Meaning: the domination of Mother Mary

Inhabited by sister Herovim. Name day: 15 August.

AG GEORGOS (ruins but the tiny church within its walls is intact).

Name day: it falls between Palm Sunday and the second Sunday of Easter.

AG EFSTANTHIOS (Privately owned by an organisation from Thessaloniki)

Name day: 20 September when islanders make their way to this remote area to attend the popular event

ANALYPSEOS (Privately owned by the Kosma family)

Meaning: The Ascension. Traditionally celebrated on a Thursday, the 4th day of Easter

TAXIARCHES (GLOSSA)

Restored to its former glory in 2000 with EU funding.

The full version of this article is available on request

SKOPELOS IN RUINS

posted in: Ancient sites | 1

It all began with Stafilos, who was probably a Cretan prince, sent to Skopelos by king Minos in the 16th century BC. He is believed to have been the son of Dionysos and Ariadni, brother to Oinopion, Thoas and Peparethos. Only Peparethos joined him in the colonisation of Skopelos and gave the island its name, which fell into disuse in the 2nd century AD. They brought with them vines and olive trees.

In 1936, contents of a rich grave were found by chance in the neck of the headland between the beaches now known as Stafilos and Valanio. They included a gold sword handle, the biggest ever to be found in Greece, plus many artefacts, including a double edged axe, the symbol of the Minoans. They can be found in the National Museum in Athens. It isn’t certain that the grave was that of Stafilos himself but it was undoubtedly that of royalty, as only a leader would have had such precious funeral offerings.

Believe it or not, there are the remains of a Mycenean wall at the end of Stafilos beach (1600-1100BC).

The remains of Roman defence walls can be found at Kastro (castle) Milos, *Panormos, Kanaka Laka and Loutraki (ancient Selinus). There’s also a very interesting looking wall next to the road to Moutero. It’s mentioned by archaeologist Diamantis Sampson, but no details documented.

Temples: Asclepius the demi-god, Artimis/Diana goddess of hunting (within the walls of private Episcope monastery), Eefastos/Vulcan god of fire and metal (Ag Konstantinos), Athene/Minerva, goddess of wisdom and war (Raches) to name but a few. Others existed, their remains having been recycled into the walls of the Christian churches that took their place.

Sarcophagi were also upcycled where possible and used in the building of Christian churches (eg. Ag Michalis Sinadon, *Panagia Eleftherotria). A complete sarcophagus is literally sticking out of the wall in the house of family Kosma. Even older are tombs honed into the rockface at Sendoukia, Aloupi, Alikias and Mavraki, Glossa.

*Roman Baths/Loutra at Katakalou, Loutraki.

A network of beacons/Phryctoria were built on hill-tops across the island, each visible to the next. A prearranged semaphore was used to convey messages. Ruins can be found at Mavrangi, Helenico, Cape Prionos, Mavraki, and Panormos. There must have been others in the Palouki area but none have been documented.

October news

posted in: 2020, Ancient sites | 0

Another busy month. Firstly Ariside & Camille arrived from France. We continued reopening the path at the mill and removed vast amounts of foliage. We have done all we can from the plane tree to the watermill aqueduct.

Volunteers Ariside and Camille
the result of nearly two months work
Cleared aqueduct, Michelaki

We then started on, what I have called the Palouki Forest Trail, which runs between the examini (water tank) Ag Triada and Ag Anna junction. This is a beautiful, shady trail which gets the hiker off the dirt road.

Palouki Forest Trail
GPS of clearing Palouki Forest Trails

Vaiva from Lithuania arrived on 26th, in time to celebrate the completion of the PFT.

We then went back and completed a sweet stretch of trail that I used to take years ago but had got completely blocked situated between Ag Iannis Kambos and a lane that takes one eventually to The Watermill. This was a particularly difficult trail to clear due to its narrowness and nowhere to throw the clippings.

Route 12 between Polimistria & Kambos

posted in: 2019, Ancient sites | 0

Since the beginning of September, we have been working on the trail between the Polimistria church Raxes and Petrovrissi Kambos. This trail is now open but between the two points there’s a bulldozed road which cuts across it. Due to lack of any planning by the council, much damaged was done to the trail when grading this road, forcing us to take action to avoid an accident.

The Temple of Athena

With the help of wonderful volunteers Evelyn & Andreas from Belgium, we worked for a week to clear this ancient site to make it attractive and visible to visitors. A sign is being made and will be placed near the road, in front of the Panagia Polimistria church, Pefkias, so that you can find it more easily. We are also in the process of clearing the trail from Kambos which emerges directly opposite the church.