MICHALAKIS

Regular visitors will have noticed that vegetation has been removed around the area and steps cut into the slope near the archway to enable access to the upper level, where the remains of the water canal that fed the mill can be seen. This work has been carried out by Georgos Papalapas. He seems to have adopted the area and we can all benefit from his enthusiasm to keep it looking beautiful. He’s also dug in some steps near the water source where a trail leads up to the dirt road. Someone else has cut down several plane trees however, which has changed the landscape. This has been reported to the Forestry department.

As well as the above, Georgos has placed a bench beside the pond, no doubt made in his family workshop Made of Wood www.madeofwood.gr

This got me thinking…. would you perhaps like to sponsor a bench like this in memory of a loved-one, pet or simply because you’d prefer to rest comfortably and admire the view on one of your favorite trails? The bench can also be engraved with words of your choice. Skopelos Trails would install and maintain it. The cost would be €185 plus €50 for an engraving.

February/March News

Chris Stofel from Austria arrived via Workaway. A landscape garden by profession, he had a lot of hiking experience, loved flora and fauna, could handle a chainsaw and made You Tube videos about his adventures! After doing a bit of maintenance work at Djelili and Potami/Diakopi, we decided to go for it and reopen The Gorge. In fact he welcomed the challenge. In spite of many rainy days, it took us just 9 days. It was also great that he was here for the Carnival as he was able to include that in his video about Skopelos Trails. This is a link to his You Tube video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJfDm8KFE6U&t=63s Skopelos Workaway: Hidden Paradise of Greece. He has made many other travel videos under the name STRAWANZA.

Next up was Sina, a 23 year old medical student from Germany. She was strong and willing to take on any job that presented itself. We tried unsuccessfully to find a better trail head for the Gorge but at least cut away a lot of undergrowth to reveal the ruins of a lime kiln. We then cut away a A LOT of smilax that was blocking a portion of the Gorge. During her stay, we also carried out maintenance work at Ag Marina (3 days), Palouki (1 day) Anania, Pirgos (3 days), Dymaka, Pirgos (2 days) and made a start at Ag Reginos/Platanakia (1 day).

On Sunday 6 April, I will be conducting a guided hike of the Gorge. We will drive to the trail head from Kastro car park, setting off at 10.30am. The Gorge itself takes about 1.1/2 hours to walk, one way. There are trees to crawl under, rocks to climb over and narrow paths with a sheer drop. Hiking here is at your own risk. Please let me know if you intend to go/want to car share. Please remember that this gorge has been the undisturbed habitat for many species of flora and fauna. We must respect this.

My April volunteer has recently cancelled so it looks as if I will have an enforced rest. Let’s see!

Tzilali/Kriavrissi Karya (part II)

Together with Austrian Workaway volunteer Chris, nine days were spent working on this 1.40km Gorge during February. If there was man-made trail, we cleared it; even one portion that is sandwiched between two huge landslides, thus rendering it somewhat redundant for the moment.

Trees too fat for my chainsaw had to be left so you have to crawl under, slippery waterfalls have to be navigated, a narrow path had to be dug out (don’t look down!) and every time the landslides dictate, we direct you into the valley floor. There are lose rocks everywhere.

All along the route, we found many scarlet coloured Elf cups (Sarcoscypha), colbolt blue Terana and multi-coloured turkey-tail (Trametes versicolor) fungi as well as Greek Anemones (Anemonoides blanda) plus beautiful natural sculptures, rock formations and ruins of what I assume were water mills.

The bridge is very delicate and under no circumstances should be walked upon. In fact, the whole Gorge is walked at your own risk. There is also one portion without a phone signal.

In spite of the above, it is absolutely stunning.

Hikers can now walk from town to Ag Konstantinos/Glysteri, continue up to the XTA, cross over and trail up towards Efstathios, dirt road to Karya then use the Gorge to return back towards Glysteri and town. Or from town trail to Anania, asphalt towards Sendoukia and circle round to Karia. Both great day long hikes.

Enjoy!

The Tzilali/Karya Gorge

It has long been my ambition to get this abandoned but previously well-used route reopened. Being the main way to the kalivia of the Karya area, it was once in regular use. The mules would be loaded up and everyone had their last drink at the Tzilali spring before setting off.

Djelili spring

However, with the creation of the wide EU road, positioned directly above the gorge (made ostensibly for bringing the household refuge from Elios to Papou XTA) many landslides occurred during the road’s construction and by the laws of gravity, rubble and boulders tumbled downwards. Thus, the trail fell into disuse.

Fearing the worst, and believing what I was told, I didn’t even bother to check the trail out to see how bad the blockages were. Well not until recently that is and I was pleasantly surprised. It is obviously overgrown having been neglected for forty odd years but there are portions of beautiful man-made trail surviving, particularly near to the top end and of course, the semi-circular stone bridge is still intact.

Having cleared the trail from the kriavrissi end down to the bridge last year, we will soon be making a start to clear from the bridge down towards Tzilali junction.

The opening of this route will automatically create several long, circular hikes. The other connecting trails have already been reopened and were just waiting for the last piece of the jigsaw to be put into place.

USE IT OR LOSE IT

We have worked on the Kyperissi trail twice during 2024.

On our second visit, no evidence could be seen of it having been used at all; no tell-tail flattened grass down the middle for example. Why don’t you drive and walk if it’s too far from town. If you park at Pirgos, the circular is just 1.6km (walk clockwise, down to Kyperissi and back up via the beautiful calderimi).

From town, it is 8.22km ONE WAY and the trail from Diakopi to the top of Pirgos is very steep indeed although the views are spectacular.

It’s a pity this pretty trail is not being used, except by us when we go to clean it. At the moment, there are a couple of mules being kept near the spring. They are friendly enough but take care if you are walking with your dog as one of them is not tethered.

2024 RECAP

I’ve been less than happy regarding the number of volunteers I could host this year as all complimentary accommodation was withdrawn for one reason or another. This left me with just my spare bedroom to host one volunteer. Even the mayor has been unable to find a solution. Bearing in mind the supply teachers are also having difficulties finding even paid longish term accommodation, Skopelos Trails doesn’t really stand a chance although we are looking into fund raising to enable us to pay. It’s been a year when we spent time clearing away trees cut down across trails as well as ones that had fallen down, a terrible bulldozed road that’s destroyed a trail near Ag Marina, more of my signs disappearing and the start of reopening the gorge trail from Djelili to Karia.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WZ4HXGSQM2ignVV89

The first volunteer didn’t arrive until 13 February. Vanessa from Canada had visited five years before. We worked for three days at Karia, then three days at Abuzali inbetween rainy days. She left 24 February.

Next up was German Leonie who arrived 1 March. We worked 1 day on the short trail behind Episkopi, at Cyperissi, Pirgos for 4 days, Djelili for 2 days and checked out a problem at Moutero and Vouno, Glossa. Leonie left on 19 March.

There was a big gap until Nick, half Greek Cypriot, half Danish, arrived 19 April. We worked in the Gorge, Karia from 21 until he left on 27 April.

2 May, young Hanna from Sweden arrived. We continued working as far as we could at the Gorge until 6 May, together with a tourist and then did a day at Pera Karia near the spring, 9 May at Vouno, Glossa and a day near Moutero church with tourist Kristina Linborg which was memorable for me as a beautiful leopard snake sauntered across the trail right in front of me. Hanna left 13 May.

During this time, I guided teachers and children from the High School on an occasional hike to Michalakis and a regular Sunday hike for locals. Also, the finishing touches were made to the Field Guide to insects, butterflies and spiders of Skopelos and published just in time of Easter. The printers did a great job and the collaboration with Drs Elizabeth and Brian Ridout went so well, we decided to do another book, this time on amphibians and snakes. Target publication time Easter 2025.

Work resumed on 27 August when I was joined by the wonder couple from Serbia, Mina and Marko. We cleared at Abuzali for three days off and on then at Kimissia for four days near the top and one day clearing away a tree in the middle of the route (since when yet another tree has fallen which will be cleared away if it would just stop raining). Mina and Marko will be back next year I am pleased to say.

On 30 September, Jasmin from Australia arrived. We did a couple of days at Klima plus another at Epermachou. She left 6 October

Julie from UK arrived 4 December and will stay at least ten days. We have much to do and I can’t wait to get started as soon as the rain stops.

These eight volunteers are a far cry from the 43 I hosted back in 2019. At least my body and budget are getting a break.

Happy Christmas to you all and thank you for your continuing support.

Greece to Map Trails for New National Path Network

Aiming to highlight Greece’s hidden natural beauty, the Environment and Energy Ministry will develop a network of trails and hiking paths spanning routes across the country. 

Under the “Creation of a National Network of Paths and Hiking Routes” project, Greek trails will be mapped into a cohesive network, supporting the preservation and protection of the countryside as well as Greece’s natural and cultural heritage.

The Retsina Trail, Skopelos. Foto: Lisa Manly

This initiative is led by the Recovery and Resilience Fund in collaboration with the Natural Environment & Climate Change Agency (OFYPEKA).“The creation of a National Path Network will help showcase Greek nature and support local sustainable development,” the ministry said in an announcement. Following the decision by Energy Minister Thodoros Skylakakis and Deputy Economy Minister Nikos Papathanasis, 67 out of 175 submitted proposals have been approved, with a total value of 30.2 million euros.

The approved proposals, submitted by municipalities, regional authorities, and monasteries, include trail network projects in locations such as Evia, Soufli, Oinousses, Kalymnos, Tzoumerka, Asterousia Mountain, Folegandros, Naxos, Donoussa, Heraklia, Ano Koufonissi, Schinoussa, Drama, and the Geraneia Mountains. Additional networks will also be developed in the regions of Western Macedonia, Epirus and the Peloponnese.The ministry noted that other candidate organizations submitting the required supporting documents for the call for expressions of interest may qualify for review by the ministry and the OFYPEKA Committee in the second evaluation round.

(Published 31 October in the GTP https:news.gtp.gr/2024/10/31/greece-to-map-trails-for-new-national-patj-network/) You may also be interested in their follow-up article https:news.gtp.gr/2024/11/04/peloponnese-region-invests-in-hiking-tourism-with-expanded-trail-network/

There are 19 National paths and an attempt is in the pipeline to connect the mountain trails with each other although some are still only at the planning stage. Full details can be obtained from info@trailpath.gr. or further details can be obtained from me. The most popular are the Menalon Trail, the Ursa Trail, the Epirus Trail and the Nestos-Rodopi Trail.

Greece is also crossed by part of the European long distant E4 trail (Source: Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering & Climbing).

A SHORT GUIDE TO THE MONASTERIES

There are 14 monasteries on Skopelos. All are Orthodox. Five are inhabited and open to the public. They are closed between 2pm and 5pm. Four are privately owned. The others are closed, disused or ruins. Nearly all have nearby fresh water springs.

Please observe their dress code, show respect and leave a donation at least for candles lit.

Nuns should be addressed as ‘sister’ and monks as ‘brother’.

PALOUKI AREA

EVANGELISMOU TIS THEOTOKOU

Meaning: The Annunciation. The time when an angel appeared before Mary with lilies and told her she was pregnant.

Name Day: 25 March. First recorded restoration took place in 1712. Since July 2024, monk Paisios has resided there.

METAMORPHOSIS OF THE SOTIROS

Meaning: Matthew 17 – when Jesus was temporarily changed physically ‘his face bright as the sun, clothes white as light’. It was a short glimpse and proof for (doubting) Thomas that He was indeed the son of God.

Built in 1636. Name day: 6 August when grapes are offered to the congregation. Monk Dionysis has resided here for some 20 years.

SAINT BARBARA

Meaning: Barbara the martyr lived from 273-306AD. Her father kept her prisoner and is usually portrayed with chains and a tower.

The building was first restored according to records in 1697. Name day: 4 December. Nun Joanna has stayed here since 2024 before which she lived in Evangelismou.

TIMIOU PRODROMOU

Meaning: The honourable John the Baptist; saint of love, loyalty and friendship.

Built in 1616. Name day; 24 June. Monk Theothosis arrived in 2020 and has transformed the place for the better, even selling his own art in the gift shop.

TAXIARCHES, VATOS (Uninhabited)

Meaning: The arc-angels Gabriel and Michaelis in the area of Vatos (bramble).

Accessible only on foot. Name day: 8 November when many islanders make their way there.

PANAGIA LIOVATHIOTISSA (Privately owned by Virgilios Tsioulli)

Built between 16th and 17th century. Name day: a changing date soon after Easter.

EPISKOPI (Privately owned by the Dimitriadou family)

Amazing finds during it’s restoration including evidence of a Roman temple dedicated to Artemis.

Name day: 15 August

AG IOANNIS KOTRONAKI (Closed)

In good condition and a monk did briefly stay here, but it does open its doors to celebrate its name day.

STAVROS (Privately owned by Andromachi Balazoudi)

Meaning: The cross. The outbuildings are now ruins but the church is intact.

Name day: 14 September

PERA KARIA AREA

AGIA MONI KIMISI THEOTOKOU

Meaning: the domination of Mother Mary

Inhabited by sister Herovim. Name day: 15 August.

AG GEORGOS (ruins but the tiny church within its walls is intact).

Name day: it falls between Palm Sunday and the second Sunday of Easter.

AG EFSTANTHIOS (Privately owned by an organisation from Thessaloniki)

Name day: 20 September when islanders make their way to this remote area to attend the popular event

ANALYPSEOS (Privately owned by the Kosma family)

Meaning: The Ascension. Traditionally celebrated on a Thursday, the 4th day of Easter

TAXIARCHES (GLOSSA)

Restored to its former glory in 2000 with EU funding.

The full version of this article is available on request

PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE!

posted in: General Announcements | 13

After waiting some four years, having assisted with the initial field work, I thought the hiking project was a gonna! Not so! Feeling particular disheartened one day recently, I asked the question of our mayor, Stamatis Perissis, and this was his reponse:

“In September, we were informed that the large project of E600,000 for the paths of Skopelos we had submitted from 2021-2022 would be approved.”

I then asked Stephenos Psimenos, owner of Terrain, who GPSd and prepared the proposal and this is his response:

“My latest information – directly from the Ministry of Environment – regarding the project is that the Trails Signposting Study carried out by Terrain, which had been submitted to the Ministry of Environment for funding, HAS BEEN APPROVED. However, as it was not approved by the Forestry Agency of Skopelos, the Municipality put pressure on them, got their approval/signature on the Study and resubmitted it to the Ministry. Now that everything is OK we are expecting to have the official announcement of the approval and the funding, by late October. If everything goes according to plan, before the end of the year, the Mayor will announce the implementation of the project and the work will start early Spring 2025.”

This project not only includes signs but also three years maintenance. It has also highlight ‘hotspots’ where land owners have attempted to close or deter hikers from using ancient trails near their property. These trails were naturally included and they have been passed as officially existing. The owners will therefore have to come to an agreement to either let pedestrians pass as they have done for hundreds of years, or officially redirect, as near to the original as possible, not just verbally, so conflicts can finally be put to rest. Furthermore, since the study was first carried out, many portions of trails have sadly been asphalted.

The study can’t be made available for general viewing until after the auction for a contractor has been completed. Dimitris Papadimitriou at the town hall should be mentioned for his efforts in expediting the final approval.

Watch the Birdie

As the dream diminishes of getting the local authority to adopt responsibility for all the trails I have spent the last umpteen years reinstating and maintaining, I have turned my efforts towards passing on knowledge of our local flora and fauna to the general public. Experts in their field are invited to submit copy together with any images they might have and photography enthusiasts/artists approached to contribute their pictures. I put the two together, arrange for the printing and voila, a field guide book! Skopelos Trails sponsors the project, which takes about a year from beginning to end, excluding the expert’s research. The resulting book is then made available through mail order via this site and locally at various outlets. The Walking Guide book will eventually adopt the same design as our published book on insects and butterflies.

In the pipeline is a guidebook on amphibians and snakes (scheduled for next Easter) plus another on bats and birds. Others will follow in the series. My walking guide book contains a list of birds, provided by various tourists over the years but I would be delighted if I could find an expert ornithologist, prepared to provide copy. Please message me if you are interested in contributing.