USE IT OR LOSE IT

We have worked on the Kyperissi trail twice during 2024.

On our second visit, no evidence could be seen of it having been used at all; no tell-tail flattened grass down the middle for example. Why don’t you drive and walk if it’s too far from town. If you park at Pirgos, the circular is just 1.6km (walk clockwise, down to Kyperissi and back up via the beautiful calderimi).

From town, it is 8.22km ONE WAY and the trail from Diakopi to the top of Pirgos is very steep indeed although the views are spectacular.

It’s a pity this pretty trail is not being used, except by us when we go to clean it. At the moment, there are a couple of mules being kept near the spring. They are friendly enough but take care if you are walking with your dog as one of them is not tethered.

2024 RECAP

I’ve been less than happy regarding the number of volunteers I could host this year as all complimentary accommodation was withdrawn for one reason or another. This left me with just my spare bedroom to host one volunteer. Even the mayor has been unable to find a solution. Bearing in mind the supply teachers are also having difficulties finding even paid longish term accommodation, Skopelos Trails doesn’t really stand a chance although we are looking into fund raising to enable us to pay. It’s been a year when we spent time clearing away trees cut down across trails as well as ones that had fallen down, a terrible bulldozed road that’s destroyed a trail near Ag Marina, more of my signs disappearing and the start of reopening the gorge trail from Djelili to Karia.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WZ4HXGSQM2ignVV89

The first volunteer didn’t arrive until 13 February. Vanessa from Canada had visited five years before. We worked for three days at Karia, then three days at Abuzali inbetween rainy days. She left 24 February.

Next up was German Leonie who arrived 1 March. We worked 1 day on the short trail behind Episkopi, at Cyperissi, Pirgos for 4 days, Djelili for 2 days and checked out a problem at Moutero and Vouno, Glossa. Leonie left on 19 March.

There was a big gap until Nick, half Greek Cypriot, half Danish, arrived 19 April. We worked in the Gorge, Karia from 21 until he left on 27 April.

2 May, young Hanna from Sweden arrived. We continued working as far as we could at the Gorge until 6 May, together with a tourist and then did a day at Pera Karia near the spring, 9 May at Vouno, Glossa and a day near Moutero church with tourist Kristina Linborg which was memorable for me as a beautiful leopard snake sauntered across the trail right in front of me. Hanna left 13 May.

During this time, I guided teachers and children from the High School on an occasional hike to Michalakis and a regular Sunday hike for locals. Also, the finishing touches were made to the Field Guide to insects, butterflies and spiders of Skopelos and published just in time of Easter. The printers did a great job and the collaboration with Drs Elizabeth and Brian Ridout went so well, we decided to do another book, this time on amphibians and snakes. Target publication time Easter 2025.

Work resumed on 27 August when I was joined by the wonder couple from Serbia, Mina and Marko. We cleared at Abuzali for three days off and on then at Kimissia for four days near the top and one day clearing away a tree in the middle of the route (since when yet another tree has fallen which will be cleared away if it would just stop raining). Mina and Marko will be back next year I am pleased to say.

On 30 September, Jasmin from Australia arrived. We did a couple of days at Klima plus another at Epermachou. She left 6 October

Julie from UK arrived 4 December and will stay at least ten days. We have much to do and I can’t wait to get started as soon as the rain stops.

These eight volunteers are a far cry from the 43 I hosted back in 2019. At least my body and budget are getting a break.

Happy Christmas to you all and thank you for your continuing support.

Greece to Map Trails for New National Path Network

Aiming to highlight Greece’s hidden natural beauty, the Environment and Energy Ministry will develop a network of trails and hiking paths spanning routes across the country. 

Under the “Creation of a National Network of Paths and Hiking Routes” project, Greek trails will be mapped into a cohesive network, supporting the preservation and protection of the countryside as well as Greece’s natural and cultural heritage.

The Retsina Trail, Skopelos. Foto: Lisa Manly

This initiative is led by the Recovery and Resilience Fund in collaboration with the Natural Environment & Climate Change Agency (OFYPEKA).“The creation of a National Path Network will help showcase Greek nature and support local sustainable development,” the ministry said in an announcement. Following the decision by Energy Minister Thodoros Skylakakis and Deputy Economy Minister Nikos Papathanasis, 67 out of 175 submitted proposals have been approved, with a total value of 30.2 million euros.

The approved proposals, submitted by municipalities, regional authorities, and monasteries, include trail network projects in locations such as Evia, Soufli, Oinousses, Kalymnos, Tzoumerka, Asterousia Mountain, Folegandros, Naxos, Donoussa, Heraklia, Ano Koufonissi, Schinoussa, Drama, and the Geraneia Mountains. Additional networks will also be developed in the regions of Western Macedonia, Epirus and the Peloponnese.The ministry noted that other candidate organizations submitting the required supporting documents for the call for expressions of interest may qualify for review by the ministry and the OFYPEKA Committee in the second evaluation round.

(Published 31 October in the GTP https:news.gtp.gr/2024/10/31/greece-to-map-trails-for-new-national-patj-network/) You may also be interested in their follow-up article https:news.gtp.gr/2024/11/04/peloponnese-region-invests-in-hiking-tourism-with-expanded-trail-network/

There are 19 National paths and an attempt is in the pipeline to connect the mountain trails with each other although some are still only at the planning stage. Full details can be obtained from info@trailpath.gr. or further details can be obtained from me. The most popular are the Menalon Trail, the Ursa Trail, the Epirus Trail and the Nestos-Rodopi Trail.

Greece is also crossed by part of the European long distant E4 trail (Source: Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering & Climbing).

A SHORT GUIDE TO THE MONASTERIES

There are 14 monasteries on Skopelos. All are Orthodox. Five are inhabited and open to the public. They are closed between 2pm and 5pm. Four are privately owned. The others are closed, disused or ruins. Nearly all have nearby fresh water springs.

Please observe their dress code, show respect and leave a donation at least for candles lit.

Nuns should be addressed as ‘sister’ and monks as ‘brother’.

PALOUKI AREA

EVANGELISMOU TIS THEOTOKOU

Meaning: The Annunciation. The time when an angel appeared before Mary with lilies and told her she was pregnant.

Name Day: 25 March. First recorded restoration took place in 1712. Since July 2024, monk Paisios has resided there.

METAMORPHOSIS OF THE SOTIROS

Meaning: Matthew 17 – when Jesus was temporarily changed physically ‘his face bright as the sun, clothes white as light’. It was a short glimpse and proof for (doubting) Thomas that He was indeed the son of God.

Built in 1636. Name day: 6 August when grapes are offered to the congregation. Monk Dionysis has resided here for some 20 years.

SAINT BARBARA

Meaning: Barbara the martyr lived from 273-306AD. Her father kept her prisoner and is usually portrayed with chains and a tower.

The building was first restored according to records in 1697. Name day: 4 December. Nun Joanna has stayed here since 2024 before which she lived in Evangelismou.

TIMIOU PRODROMOU

Meaning: The honourable John the Baptist; saint of love, loyalty and friendship.

Built in 1616. Name day; 24 June. Monk Theothosis arrived in 2020 and has transformed the place for the better, even selling his own art in the gift shop.

TAXIARCHES, VATOS (Uninhabited)

Meaning: The arc-angels Gabriel and Michaelis in the area of Vatos (bramble).

Accessible only on foot. Name day: 8 November when many islanders make their way there.

PANAGIA LIOVATHIOTISSA (Privately owned by Virgilios Tsioulli)

Built between 16th and 17th century. Name day: a changing date soon after Easter.

EPISKOPI (Privately owned by the Dimitriadou family)

Amazing finds during it’s restoration including evidence of a Roman temple dedicated to Artemis.

Name day: 15 August

AG IOANNIS KOTRONAKI (Closed)

In good condition and a monk did briefly stay here, but it does open its doors to celebrate its name day.

STAVROS (Privately owned by Andromachi Balazoudi)

Meaning: The cross. The outbuildings are now ruins but the church is intact.

Name day: 14 September

PERA KARIA AREA

AGIA MONI KIMISI THEOTOKOU

Meaning: the domination of Mother Mary

Inhabited by sister Herovim. Name day: 15 August.

AG GEORGOS (ruins but the tiny church within its walls is intact).

Name day: it falls between Palm Sunday and the second Sunday of Easter.

AG EFSTANTHIOS (Privately owned by an organisation from Thessaloniki)

Name day: 20 September when islanders make their way to this remote area to attend the popular event

ANALYPSEOS (Privately owned by the Kosma family)

Meaning: The Ascension. Traditionally celebrated on a Thursday, the 4th day of Easter

TAXIARCHES (GLOSSA)

Restored to its former glory in 2000 with EU funding.

The full version of this article is available on request

PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE!

posted in: General Announcements | 15

After waiting some four years, having assisted with the initial field work, I thought the hiking project was a gonna! Not so! Feeling particular disheartened one day recently, I asked the question of our mayor, Stamatis Perissis, and this was his reponse:

“In September, we were informed that the large project of E600,000 for the paths of Skopelos we had submitted from 2021-2022 would be approved.”

I then asked Stephenos Psimenos, owner of Terrain, who GPSd and prepared the proposal and this is his response:

“My latest information – directly from the Ministry of Environment – regarding the project is that the Trails Signposting Study carried out by Terrain, which had been submitted to the Ministry of Environment for funding, HAS BEEN APPROVED. However, as it was not approved by the Forestry Agency of Skopelos, the Municipality put pressure on them, got their approval/signature on the Study and resubmitted it to the Ministry. Now that everything is OK we are expecting to have the official announcement of the approval and the funding, by late October. If everything goes according to plan, before the end of the year, the Mayor will announce the implementation of the project and the work will start early Spring 2025.”

This project not only includes signs but also three years maintenance. It has also highlight ‘hotspots’ where land owners have attempted to close or deter hikers from using ancient trails near their property. These trails were naturally included and they have been passed as officially existing. The owners will therefore have to come to an agreement to either let pedestrians pass as they have done for hundreds of years, or officially redirect, as near to the original as possible, not just verbally, so conflicts can finally be put to rest. Furthermore, since the study was first carried out, many portions of trails have sadly been asphalted.

The study can’t be made available for general viewing until after the auction for a contractor has been completed. Dimitris Papadimitriou at the town hall should be mentioned for his efforts in expediting the final approval.

Watch the Birdie

As the dream diminishes of getting the local authority to adopt responsibility for all the trails I have spent the last umpteen years reinstating and maintaining, I have turned my efforts towards passing on knowledge of our local flora and fauna to the general public. Experts in their field are invited to submit copy together with any images they might have and photography enthusiasts/artists approached to contribute their pictures. I put the two together, arrange for the printing and voila, a field guide book! Skopelos Trails sponsors the project, which takes about a year from beginning to end, excluding the expert’s research. The resulting book is then made available through mail order via this site and locally at various outlets. The Walking Guide book will eventually adopt the same design as our published book on insects and butterflies.

In the pipeline is a guidebook on amphibians and snakes (scheduled for next Easter) plus another on bats and birds. Others will follow in the series. My walking guide book contains a list of birds, provided by various tourists over the years but I would be delighted if I could find an expert ornithologist, prepared to provide copy. Please message me if you are interested in contributing.

SKOPELOS IN RUINS

posted in: Ancient sites | 1

It all began with Stafilos, who was probably a Cretan prince, sent to Skopelos by king Minos in the 16th century BC. He is believed to have been the son of Dionysos and Ariadni, brother to Oinopion, Thoas and Peparethos. Only Peparethos joined him in the colonisation of Skopelos and gave the island its name, which fell into disuse in the 2nd century AD. They brought with them vines and olive trees.

In 1936, contents of a rich grave were found by chance in the neck of the headland between the beaches now known as Stafilos and Valanio. They included a gold sword handle, the biggest ever to be found in Greece, plus many artefacts, including a double edged axe, the symbol of the Minoans. They can be found in the National Museum in Athens. It isn’t certain that the grave was that of Stafilos himself but it was undoubtedly that of royalty, as only a leader would have had such precious funeral offerings.

Believe it or not, there are the remains of a Mycenean wall at the end of Stafilos beach (1600-1100BC).

The remains of Roman defence walls can be found at Kastro (castle) Milos, *Panormos, Kanaka Laka and Loutraki (ancient Selinus). There’s also a very interesting looking wall next to the road to Moutero. It’s mentioned by archaeologist Diamantis Sampson, but no details documented.

Temples: Asclepius the demi-god, Artimis/Diana goddess of hunting (within the walls of private Episcope monastery), Eefastos/Vulcan god of fire and metal (Ag Konstantinos), Athene/Minerva, goddess of wisdom and war (Raches) to name but a few. Others existed, their remains having been recycled into the walls of the Christian churches that took their place.

Sarcophagi were also upcycled where possible and used in the building of Christian churches (eg. Ag Michalis Sinadon, *Panagia Eleftherotria). A complete sarcophagus is literally sticking out of the wall in the house of family Kosma. Even older are tombs honed into the rockface at Sendoukia, Aloupi, Alikias and Mavraki, Glossa.

*Roman Baths/Loutra at Katakalou, Loutraki.

A network of beacons/Phryctoria were built on hill-tops across the island, each visible to the next. A prearranged semaphore was used to convey messages. Ruins can be found at Mavrangi, Helenico, Cape Prionos, Mavraki, and Panormos. There must have been others in the Palouki area but none have been documented.

SNAKES – the misunderstood

It’s that time of year again when you’re likely to encounter these reptiles of the suborder Serpentes. As it happens, I am researching with a view to writing a book on this subject. Should be published by next year.

None of them are dangerous unless provoked.  If you’re worried, buy a first aid kit from the pharmacy for 14 euros just in case. It has everything you need to stop the venom from travelling, then get to the Health Centre.

Of the Colubridae Rat Snake family we have two types on Skopelos; Leopard (Elephe situla) Spitofido and Four lined (Lafiatis). They are the largest and grow up to 2 meters. Beautifully coloured. Seldom hiss and are calm. The 4 Lined are excellent climbers and swimmers. Some tourists can vouch for the former. One recently came ashore at Panormos, made its way along the beach then went back into the sea. They eat small mammals, birds and lizards. Non venomous.

Eastern Montpellier Malpolon insignitus  ( Sapethis or Savrofido). They grow up to 2 meters. Mildly venomous rear-fanged. Variable colours (green, black, grey, green) depending upon juveniles or adults/male or female. Feeds mainly on lizards, rodents, birds, amphibians and other snakes. It will defend strongly if threatened by hissing loudly, raising its head, flattening the neck and pretending to attack. It will bite if caught. Pain, swelling and maybe fever are symptoms that may occur that usually relent in a few hours.

Large Whip Snake – possibly Hierophis jungularis (Dendrogalia) Whilst they don’t usually occur on the same island as the Four Lined snake, it is believed they are here. The common black snake. One of the longest reaching sometimes up to 300cm. Very swift. Non poisonous.

Nose-horned Viper (Oxia). It has connecting brown spots, surrounded by black. Body grey.  When disturbed they hiss loudly. Highly venomous. Image by Costas Andreou.

A Field Guide to the Insects of Skopelos

posted in: Uncategorized | 0

I’m very proud to have sponsored the migration, printing and publication of this wonderful new edition.

First published in 2015 by Doctors Brian and Elizabeth Ridout, it could easily have fallen into the memory of time as it became out of print and thus no longer available.

Brian and Elizabeth are biologists who have specialized in the conservation of heritage buildings around the world. In 2003 they came to Skopelos to visit friends. They liked it so much they subsequently bought a house in town and later (now sold) kalivi in the once beautiful Moutero and ever since visit several times a year.

It soon became apparent to them that there were no reference works available to identify the insects commonly seen on their walks in the countryside and decided to write one themselves! The task took TEN YEARS of research and was originally a basic field guide.

Text and most images by Brian Ridout, the scenic images are by Lisa Manly and the design and cover photo is by Heather Parsons. It’s available on line here and at the following local shops: Hoharoupa (next to Vodafon), the old Kiosk old port, Ideas, Juices & Books and the kiosk in Glossa by the school.

The Ridout’s wish to thank Heather for turning the new edition into a work of art as well as of science.

Who cares?

The last month’s have been spent removing cut down trees that have been abandoned thus blocking the trails. In this situation, we take pictures and GPS and send to the Forestry department. Not expecting a result I then tell them I will remove the blockage myself unless they contact me. I then get a message saying to go ahead. First all foliage is removed so we can see what we are dealing with. We remove with a chainsaw the branches facing upwards and outwards but leave the downward ones in case they are load-bearing. The owner is also contacted if possible to ascertain why the trees were cut in the first place and to inform them of the consequences of their actions. This has happened in Pera Karia, Potami, Vouno Glossa and Moutero.